Bangkok’s Chinatown is one of those neighborhoods that many travelers would consider ‘authentic’.
If tourists stopped visiting tomorrow, it would keep being pretty much the same as it is now. Its two main streets, Yaowarat and Charoen Krung, would continue to be filled with cars, tuk tuks and people pushing food carts at all hours. Their sois -alleys- would continue to be filled with street food professionals cooking for customers waiting in plastic chairs. The merchandise, from stores that use the streets and sidewalks as if are theirs, would remain occupying the public space, while thousands of people would keep walking from one place to another trying to avoid all these obstacles and creating a curious order in the chaos.
Chinatown is an explosion of life, and somehow is Bangkok in its purest form.
While other neighborhoods in Bangkok have sold out to modernity, Chinatown has stubbornly kept its spirit, and keeps being an exotic and chaotic neighborhood, hated by some and loved by others. Bangkok’s Chinatown district is not just another Chinatown, but one of the oldest in the world.
Bangkok’s Chinatown was born in 1782 when King Rama I -the first monarch of the current dynasty- decided to move his city from the west bank of the Chao Phraya river to the east bank, in the Rattanakosin area, pushing the Chinese immigrants that were living there a little further downriver, to the area where Chinatown still stands.
Bangkok's Chinatown
Sampeng Lane market
In Sampeng you will find products mainly focused on the Thai market. Things like bags, shoes and sandals of all kinds, clothes, pillows, sheets, earrings and bracelets, among many others. Although they also sell single units, the market is geared towards wholesale buyers.
To get there, you can go to the main street of Bangkok’s Chinatown, Yaowarad Road, and from there look for Soi Wanit 2, the alley where the market is located. The market runs from Chackphet Road to Yaowa Phanit Road.
The Temple of the Golden Buddha is perhaps the most visited place in Bangkok’s Chinatown. After the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, Wat Traimit is the third most popular temple among tourists in
Wat Traimit is located on one of Chinatown’s main streets, Charoen Krung Road, a 10-minute walk from Hua Lamphong MRT subway stop.
Street food at Yaowarat Road
I personally love the satay (chicken skewers) sold at the beginning of Plaeng Nam Road (one of the streets that comes out of Yaowarad). After a satay dinner with a fruit juice, I usually try one of the many Thai desserts on offer in the area.
Sadly, in Bangkok’s Chinatown you will also see many restaurants offering shark fin soups. Despite there being no proof of this, some Chinese believe that eating shark fins increases sexual potency, among other purported benefits. This stupid belief fuels the cruel fishing practice, already banned in the EU, of catching sharks, cutting off their fins and throwing them back into the sea, which is one of the main causes of the decline of the world’s shark population.
Also in Yaowarad street you will find one of the shabbiest and cheapest cinemas in Bangkok, the ‘Chinatown Rama’. During the day I think they show mostly Chinese movies, but at night their entrance turns into a makeshift street restaurant that seems quite popular.
Fantastic views from the River View Guest House restaurant
Getting there is quite tricky, since you have to walk a small maze of alleys, but it is well worth the effort. You have to go early, since they close around 11pm. It is located at Soi Phanurangsi, but it’s easier if you just follow this
If you want to stay in Chinatown, I recommend the aforementioned River View Guest House in case you are looking for a cheap hostel, or the Shanghai Mansion if you want a good 4-star hotel. We use the latter for some of our clients at InThailand Travel, and the truth is that it is very cool and its location couldn’t be more central: on Yaowarad Road itself.
